Northern Vancouver Island starts roughly at Campbell River and extends to the northern tip of the island. It is generally more rugged and isolated than the southern portion of the island, although I am adding the much busier Tofino and Campbell River to the area for the purpose of this blog. The northern island is a place for activities like hiking and paddling, and for wildlife viewing ranging from whales and otters to bears and eagles. Much of the inland side is accessible by road, while the Pacific side is generally only accessible in a few locations. There are many parks and tour operators in the area which makes it easy to get out even if you do not have experience.
Location of northern Vancouver Island
This part of Vancouver Island is very diverse, with long beaches, exposed coasts, long estuaries, low mountains, island filled channels, tidal rips, coastal rain forests, bears, eagles, otters, sea lions, whales and much more. It is much wilder than the south, but is also typically cooler and wetter (nothing is free...).
Surf in Pacific Rim National Park
A humpback heads for the deep in the Strait of Georgia
We did a week and a half trip in the northern part of the island, spending 5 days in Ucluelet, 2 days in Campbell River, and 4 days in Port Hardy. From Ucluelet we explored the Long Beach portion of Pacific Rim National Park and went on whale watching and paddling tours out of Tofino. From Campbell River we visited Cathedral Gove (an old growth stand of Douglas Fir) and did a whale watching tour. From Port Hardy we visited the Little Huson Caves, went to Port Alice for an otter tour, and went to Telegraph Cove for a paddling tour. What we missed, since we didn't know about it until we got home, was the "eagle show". This is a little known but astounding event that happens at specific times when strong tidal rips near Campbell River push migrating fish rapidly upward, expanding their swim bladders and leaving them floating helplessly on the surface. This is a very predictable event that occurs periodically during the late spring and early summer, and when it happens hundreds of eagles congregate to grab an easy meal during the short window when the tide is strongest. Next time.
Bald eagles getting ready to head out for the morning in Ucluelet
Tugboats in Tofino harbour
Clayoquot Sound
Driftwood on a Pacific Rim National Park beach
Surf rolls in on a beach near Tofino
A trail through old growth in Pacific Rim National Park
A raven checks us out in Pacific Rim National Park
A gull searches for a meal along the surf line in Pacific Rim National Park
A humpback calf plays while mom rests in the Strait of Georgia
A sea lion siesta in the Strait of Georgia
Cruisers find a quiet harbour in Quatsino Sound
A sea otter enjoys a snack in Quatsino Sound
An orca surfaces in Quatsino Sound
A stream runs through a tunnel 'cave' in Little Huson Caves Regional Park
Amphitrite Point Lighthouse in Ucluelet
Evening light on mist over Barkley Sound
A grey whale takes a breath in Clayoquot Sound
Walking the beach in Pacific Rim National Park
A killdeer finds a meal on the beach
Storm surf pounds a beach in Pacific Rim National Park
Old man's beard lichen in Pacific Rim National Park
Sunset in Pacific Rim National Park
A lovely cove in the Discovery Islands
A humpback starts its dive in the Strait of Georgia
A supply barge moves through Discovery Passage
A harbour seal enjoys the sun in Quatsino Sound
A black oystercatcher searches the intertidal zone in Quatsino Sound
A storm approaches across Queen Charlotte Sound
A final point to consider if you take a boat tour. The options are generally a zodiac or larger boat with a cabin. Though the zodiac sounds like, and probably is, a more intimate experience, you can’t move around much in the boat, there is no protection from the weather, and you will have to wear a survival suit. If the weather is cold you will still be cold, if there is spray or rain you will be wet, and if it is warm you will be very hot. In other words the ideal weather window for a zodiac is quite narrow, especially if you are out for photography! Both types of vessel will provide a great tour, but pick based on the experience you are looking for.
Northern Vancouver Island is a great area to explore, and your activities can be as easy or challenging as you would like. This time we opted for easy :-)